Welcome to the wild and untamed beauty of Grand Staircase-Escalante, a hidden gem tucked away in southern Utah’s rugged landscape. Often overlooked for the popular Parks nearby, this is our favourite area in the state, and we can’t wait to show you around!
Less crowded than many of Utah’s national parks, Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument offers adventurers a chance to escape the hustle and bustle and immerse themselves in the tranquillity of nature. Here, you’ll find vast untouched wilderness waiting to be explored, with endless opportunities for off-the-beaten-path adventures.
Located in the heart of the Colorado Plateau, Grand Staircase-Escalante stretches across nearly 1.9 million acres of desert terrain. The rugged wilderness, hidden waterfalls, and winding slot canyons provide a playground for travellers seeking solitude and serenity.
One of the park’s biggest draws is its wild camping opportunities, allowing visitors to pitch their tents under the star-studded sky and reconnect with the natural world around them.
Before diving into this travel guide, we must first discuss Utah’s fragile ecosystem.
Utah is known for its unique desert landscapes and vast public land. In fact, almost 75% of this beautiful state is dedicated to recreation in the form of public BLM land, National Parks, National Monuments, and National Forests.
This makes it the perfect place for van life and boondocking, but exploring Utah comes with a huge responsibility. While the ecosystem here may seem resilient, it is actually incredibly fragile. Because of this, it is essential that we all do everything we can to minimize our impact on the environment.
Leave No Trace
Here is a quick overview of the 7 Leave No Trace principles and how they apply to Utah:
1. Pack it in, Pack it out
Take all trash and waste with you and dispose of it properly in designated receptacles. *THIS INCLUDES TOILET PAPER!* A common misconception is that organic matter can be disposed of in the outdoors (e.g. orange peels, food scraps, poop).
The truth is that this waste can be especially harmful in the desert as it decomposes very slowly. Organic material takes months to years to break down, so we must leave absolutely nothing. If you do not have a toilet in your van, you need to bury human waste (6 inches deep) or use a “Wag Bag” to take your waste and toilet paper with you to the nearest garbage. No excuses!
2. Camp/Travel on Existing Surfaces
Utilize established camping spots whenever possible. When camping off-road, choose sites that are already impacted and follow BLM regulations. Good campsites are found, not made. Altering a site is never necessary. Travel on existing trails, paths or hardy surfaces such as rock and gravel. This will help reduce the chance of destroying fragile plant species such as Cryptobiotic Soil.
3. Minimize Campfire Impact
Campfires are often prohibited due to the risk of wildfires. Use a camp stove for cooking and heating. Where fires are permitted, use established fire rings or pits and make sure to put it out completely before you leave.
4. Plan Ahead and Prepare
Know the regulations and special concerns for the area you’ll visit. Prepare for extreme weather, hazards, and emergencies. ALWAYS bring extra food and water on any outing in Utah. The heat sneaks up on you, making it easy to dehydrate and overheat. Use reusable containers and bottles for food and water to reduce the potential of waste while out in the desert.
5. Leave What You Find
Leaving what you find in beautiful, historic hot spots like the desert is always good. Others want to be able to see the natural relics of the wilderness as much as you do, so don’t remove or alter them.
6. Respect Wildlife
Always observe wildlife from a distance. Do not follow or approach them. Do not feed the wildlife or allow your pets to get too close.
7. Be Considerate
This is especially important in an area where many people gather to camp, hike, and enjoy the great outdoors without any amenities or “rules.” Respect other visitors and protect the quality of their experience. The public lands are for all of us to use, so be the neighbour you would want to have and enjoy!
Where to Stay
If you want to stay in an established campground, we recommend Calf Creek Campground or Escalante Cabins & RV Park. The BLM land along Hole-in-the-Rock-Trail offers free wild camping; you just have to follow these rules and ALWAYS leave no trace.
Escalante is a good option if you want to stay in a hotel and are looking to access the majority of this region. That said, there are a few trails and photo spots closer to Kanab.
*By booking accommodation through our tailored maps + links, you support us at no additional cost to you. We appreciate you!*
How Long You Need
The highlights of this area can be seen in 3 to 14 days. This depends on whether you want to do any multi-day adventures, if you have a 4X4 vehicle, and how many hikes you would like to do in this region.
Van Life Essentials
Cheap Showers: Escalante Cabins & RV Park offers showers for non-guests for $6 per person. In Kanab, you can shower at the Swimming Pool at Jacob Hamblin Park for $4.
Laundry: Escalante Cabins & RV Park has several coin-operated laundry machines. There is also a laundromat in Kanab.
Water Fill Stations: The visitors centre lets you fill up containers for free, but they don’t allow RV hookups. Escalante Cabins & RV Park charges $15 to fill up your RV tank.
If possible, it’s best to arrive with a full tank, as you can fill up for free in Bryce Canyon or Torrey, on either side of Escalante. If you want to fill up in Kanab, this Chevron has a free spout.
The Best Things To Do
The Cosmic Ashtray
4 km (2.5 miles) + 150 m (492 feet) of elevation gain
The Cosmic Ashtray is one of the most unique places we have ever been, and it is worth visiting during your time in Grand Staircase-Escalante! If you have a 4X4 or e-bike, you can park here, making the hike around 4 km (2.5 miles) with 150 m (492 feet) of elevation gain. This road crosses deep sand in several places, so 4X4 is non-negotiable!
If you are uncomfortable driving, you can park at the Harris Wash Trailhead and hike in, but it will be closer to 14.5 kilometres (9 miles) with 300 m (984 feet) of elevation gain. Downloading an offline map for this hike is very important, as the trail is non-existent.
Peekaboo & Spooky Slot Canyons
6.7 km (4.1 miles) + 170m (558 feet) of elevation gain
This beautiful hike begins at the Lower Dry Forks Trailhead and takes you on a loop through two narrow slot canyons. The trail is 6.7 km (4.1 miles) with 170m (558 feet) of elevation gain.
This hike is incredible, but it comes with some significant warnings! Do not attempt it with young children, pets, or claustrophobia. The end of Spooky Slot Canyon was so narrow that we had to shuffle sideways for 10-15 minutes. I found it very panic-inducing, and while I’m glad I experienced it once, I would not return.
NOTE FOR ALL SLOT CANYON HIKES IN UTAH: Do not go if any rain is forecast within a 50-mile radius. Flash floods happen fast, and they can be deadly!
Lower Calf Creek Falls
9.8km (6.1 miles) + 162m (531 feet) of elevation gain
Lower Calf Creek Falls is a gorgeous hike to a 126-foot waterfall in the middle of the desert! The trail begins at the Calf Creek Campground, and parking costs $5 per vehicle. This is a great place to stay the night if you are looking for a campground.
This hike is 9.8km (6.1 miles) roundtrip with 162m (531 feet) of elevation gain. Although the trail is relatively flat, make sure to bring plenty of water and snacks for all hikes in the desert! We would recommend going early to beat the crowds.
The Toadstool Hoodoos
2.9 km (1.8 miles) + 43 m (141 feet) elevation gain
The Toadstool Hoodoos is a hidden gem tucked away from many other trails in Grand Staircase-Escalante. This scenic hike is 2.9 km (1.8 miles) with 43 m (141 feet) elevation gain round trip, making it a manageable trek for explorers of all abilities.
As you traverse the sandy trail, you’ll be treated to a captivating display of towering hoodoos and whimsically shaped rocks that seem to defy gravity. This trail is located right along the Utah/Arizona border and is most easily accessed from Kanab.
The Great Chamber (Cutler Point)
4X4 DRIVE/HIKE IN ACCESS: STRENUOUS 4X4 DRIVE + 1 KILOMETRE & 89 M OF ELEVATION
The Great Chamber is located just outside Grand Staircase-Escalante, very close to Kanab. Although getting to this natural amphitheatre requires some planning, it will surely leave you awestruck. The best way to get to this phenomenal place is by tour or to rent a 4X4 Jeep.
Because you are driving through deep sand for 27km (17 miles), a 4WD with high clearance is necessary. We aired down our tires to 20 PSI before embarking across a river and onto the sandy roads. Once you reach the parking area, there is a short 1 km (1.6 mile) hike up into the chamber.
The access point is located HERE, just off Johnston Canyon Road. You will need an offline map to follow, as nothing is labelled in this off-road area.
Devil’s Garden
0.6 km (0.4 miles) + 11m (36 feet) of elevation gain
If you’re looking for something less strenuous, Devil’s Garden offers a captivating adventure for all experience levels. This hiking trail winds through a surreal landscape of sculpted rock formations reminiscent of an otherworldly playground.
Devil’s Garden Loop Trail is only 0.6 km (0.4 miles) with 11m (36 feet) of elevation gain. This makes it a great stop on your way to a bigger hike along Hole in the Rock Road.
Reflection Canyon
24 km (15.3 miles) + 477 m (1564 feet) of elevation gain
Reflection Canyon is a 24 km (15.3 mile) hike with 477 m (1564 feet) of elevation gain. Because of the distance and the fact that the trailhead involves a long drive down a bumpy gravel road, this is best done as an overnight hike. The sunrise views are insane!
If you decide to hike here, make sure to get a free permit from the visitor’s centre and pack in plenty of water; there is nowhere to refill along the trail. All overnight hikes in the desert require plenty of food, water, an offline map, and a way to call for help if needed, like a Garmin inReach or satellite phone.
Coyote Gulch
17 km (10.5 miles) + 430 m (1410 feet) of elevation gain
Coyote Gulch offers great multi-day adventures through a hidden oasis in the middle of the desert. This gulch is home to several stunning landmarks, including The Jacob Hamblin Arch and Coyote Natural Bridge.
The most common starting point is the Hurricane Wash Trailhead, and this loop is 17 km (10.5 miles) with 430 m (1410 feet) of elevation gain. If you plan to camp overnight in the gulch, a free permit is required from the visitors centre or the trailhead.
IMPORTANT: No pets are allowed in the gulch, and hikers must pack out all solid human waste.
Jacob Hamblin Arch via “The Sneaker Route”
7.5 km (4.7 miles) + 206m (676 feet) of elevation gain
If you do not have the time or desire to get here via Hurricane Wash Trailhead, a shorter trail requires you to bring a 250-foot-long rope to scale down into the canyon. This is the route we did, and while we would not recommend it to beginners, it was less challenging than we anticipated.
This trail is about 7.5 km (4.7 miles) roundtrip with 206m (676 feet) of elevation gain, beginning at the Water Tanks Trailhead. 4X4 is not required, but it will make your drive much more enjoyable. Do not attempt this drive if the road is muddy or wet. Make sure to have an offline map downloaded, as the trail can be hard to follow.
Zebra Slot Canyon
8.4 km (5.2 miles) + 115 metres (378 feet) of elevation gain
Zebra Slot Canyon is a difficult hike that should only be attempted by experienced trekkers and, ideally, those with slot canyon experience. This captivating trail is 8.4 km (5.2 miles) with 115 metres (378 feet) of elevation gain round trip. It leads hikers through a maze of towering sandstone walls and narrow passageways.
An offline map is essential to ensure you stay on the correct trail. This slot canyon is known to have thigh-to-chest-deep water at times. We would not feel comfortable hiking through any water, but some people choose to. ALWAYS check for rain and flash flood danger before a slot canyon hike.
Other Adventures in Grand Staircase-Escalante
This section of Utah is relatively underexplored, and there are so many hikes that we have not had a chance to do! You could easily spend weeks here.
These are a few other destinations we think might be worth looking into:
- Willis Creek Narrows Trail
- Escalante Natural Bridge
- Coyote Natural Bridge
- Phillips Arch Trail
- Paria Canyon
- Singing Canyon Trail
- Grosvenor Arch Trail
- Catstair Canyon
- Covered Wagon Natural Bridge Trail
- Cottonwood Canyon Road
We hope you enjoy your trip to Utah! Feel free to reach out with any questions or comment below with your favourite stops in Grand Staircase-Escalante, we would love to hear from you.
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